Golden
white under its gray slate roof, Marlfield cottage leans back against
the protecting arm of the hill and gazes quietly across the lough at the
brown and green hills of the County
Down. The low white wall about the cottage yard is broken
by a single gate painted green to match the shutters and doors.
The chimney is smokeless. The crisp yellow curtains are still.
The narrow gray road curves between the pastures and the cobbled beach,
brushes the white wall lightly, follows the coastline leftward and
disappears behind a mass of golden gorse at the foot of the hill. There
is no sound but the wash of wavelets on the stones and the faint, elfish
tinkle of distant cowbells. The cottage, alone but not lonely, settles
back to enjoy the unaccustomed May sunshine. Across the lough, just to
the right of the sun-tracks on the water, the finger of the Scrabo
Tower
points heavenward, a silhouetted memorial to a son
who never came back.
The
cottage was never intended to be a monument. More than a century ago it
was built, stone on stone, by a retired schoolmaster. The pattern was
traditional: one room deep, four rooms long, and a room-and-a-loft high
with broad stone chimneys on each end. Two sturdy plank doors faced the
road; two faced the hillside garden and the spring.
The
old man built well, for he intended to live there many years. In that
part of the world, when people pass a certain age they seem to go on
forever. Perhaps it's part
of the timelessness of the land. Anyway, he built to last, and roofed
the house with slate that could defy storm, fire and time. He had his
bed and wardrobe made to special order in Strangford, whose ruined
castle still stands guard over the mouth of the lough where the wind and
chop of the Irish Sea
are focused by the funnel of the land.
When
all was ready he sailed down to the village, carefully loaded his
furniture at the ancient stone quay, and started homeward. About the
half-way point he was overtaken and hidden by a rain squall which left
only empty sea when it passed. The remains of the boat washed ashore a
few hundred yards down the beach from the cottage. The old man's body
was never found; perhaps his sea boots weighed him down.
Since
this was Ireland, the cottage soon acquired a reputation for being
haunted. The farm people drove their carts and cows along the road by
day, but nothing could persuade them to pass the cottage at night. In
bright moonlight it stood like a white sentinel surveying the road. On
misty nights it was worse, for then it loomed up suddenly with empty,
staring windows in its gray face.
Local
lore had it that the builder was in residence, weedy sea boots and all,
and no one wished to offend him by renting it. No one, that is, until
some twenty years later my grandfather and his brother leased the
cottage for five pounds a year and set about refurbishing it as a summer
place. Neither was superstitious in the least; had the Devil himself
seen fit to challenge either of them, he would have been well advised to
bring his friends with him. The cottage stayed in the family for nearly
thirty years until the children were all grown and gone and my
grandfather had retired.
Marlfield
entered my world when I was about two years old, snuggled down in my
father's bed as he began to spin his web of boyhood adventures. I don't
know how many years I listened to the stories, but they never grew old.
It had been a marvelous place for a boy to grow up. The hills behind the
house were one huge rabbit warren, and the lough teemed with fish. There
was a boat, and a little to the north was McCausland's
Island
with old ships beached for salvage and no one to
keep small boys from exploring.
A
six-foot conger eel was captured under an old hatch cover one Sunday
morning and brought home just in time to disrupt the family's trip to
meeting in the pony cart. All sorts of interesting things hid under the
rocks of the beach at low tide.
Old
Mrs. Savage, at the big house up the road, owned the cottage. She sold
the family milk and cream and always had a slice of hot buttered
soda-bread for the child who brought the pail in the morning.
My
father was the oldest, but eventually there were four boys and two girls
sitting by the glowing, smoldering turf fire in the kitchen fireplace on
stormy evenings when the surf crashed against the sea-wall and pattered
down on the slate roof of the cottage. My grandfather's business kept
him in
Belfast
during the week, so the children and their mother
had the place pretty much to themselves.
"Pretty
much," I say, because there sometimes were noises not of the house,
such as heavy, booted footsteps in the loft above. After repeated checks
with gun and lantern revealed nothing, the sounds became as accepted as
the ticking of the clock on the wall.
Then
one night Daisy and Nellie, the two girls who by this time had grown up
and were in nurses' training, were alone at the cottage with Queenie,
the family Great Dane. Everything was calm, when suddenly there came a
loud rapping at the heavy iron knocker of the front door. Queenie
growled. Thinking it might be a neighbor, Daisy called, "Come
in!" The only answer was an even more urgent rapping.
Daisy
slipped a couple of shells into the old double-barreled shotgun that
stood in the corner. Queenie was nearly going crazy. As Daisy threw the
door wide open the dog dashed out and started running in circles,
whining. The girls stepped out. The road, the beach and the hillside lay
bright in the moonlight, but no one was there. The neighbors nodded
wisely when they heard the story in the morning, but that was the last
time it happened. Whoever or
whatever the visitor had been, he never came back.
The
cottage had been the center of the universe to the children, but one by
one they went away. Daisy and Nellie became nurses and eventually
married. Bertie and my father worked as electricians at the
"Queen's Island," the big Harland and Wolff shipyard in Belfast, and when the White Star Line
commissioned its
newest liner in l912, there was an opening for just one of them in its
crew. Bertie won the flip of the coin and sailed, junior electrician on
the Titanic.
Clement
and Basil emigrated to Canada
after the war. My father knocked around the world
for several years before jumping ship in Baltimore
to marry the girl he once courted in Ireland. He worked hard, but all his life the hub of his
world remained the little stone cottage by Strangford Lough. It became
the same to me, for it provided a fixed point of reference in the
kaleidoscope of our many moves.
I
was forty-four and he was retired and a widower when I took him back to Ireland. Going back is always risky, but as we stood
together on the gray road and looked at the cottage, it was just as he
had described it. My father may have been a romantic, but he never
romanticized, and it seemed to us both that we had never really been
away.
He
wanted to buy the cottage, and he could have afforded it, but I knew
that at seventy-nine the climate would have killed him out of hand. He
never went back, and now he's gone just like all the others.
A
few years later my wife and I stood together beside the little white
wall and I also felt the call to seek out the owner and persuade him to
sell. I didn't. Now it seems unlikely that I, the last who really cares,
will ever return.
It's
strange, though, how homesick one can be for a house he never lived in
and for a country that was never his own.
Maybe I suspect, down in my heart, that I'm missing out on some
wonderful conversations in the cottage, sitting by the blue turf fire on
a stormy night as the spray patters on the roof.