I imagine slipping out of my dress and into the tub, lying in the gentle
light from the window, my eyes closed against the insistence of the
mid-summer heat. I allow my
body to remember the rhythms of the water, and I dream of the green
spring which first drew people to this city and centuries later still
bubbles up between the stones and the sand. I can hear those first horses and men snort as they drink, so
near death and then saved by a crevice in the earth that sings of a cool
darkness and a hundred thousand rains.
But
the heat of this August night pulls me back.
Reality is a street café in Nimes, where Cam
is nursing his last cup of coffee. As I struggle to let go of the daydream, a young dark haired girl
with chubby arms and tired eyes places a card and a small, stuffed blue
bear beside my cup. After
looking for a moment into our faces, a moment when no one’s expression
changes, the child quietly makes her way to the next table. When all the tables have been served, she rags her feet to go
stand by her brothers and father who wait on the sidewalk. At the sound of the father’s mandolin and a nod of his head,
the brothers join in on a rough rendition of an old Spanish folk song.
The café’s patrons, in deference to the little girl or in a
desire for the music to stop, begin to lay money down on the cards, and
after a few moments of voiceless scuffling with her brothers, the young
girl is pushed toward the tables. Once again wearing a blank but intense
face, she gathers the bills and coins into her hands, then quickly walks
back and hands them to her father. He
nods at his inattentive audience, touches his hat, and without a word,
he and his family drift down the street to the next café.
I
reach for the bear, study its polka dot bow tie and swing it on my
finger by its gaudy golden thread while smiling at Cam.
He
tears it out of my hand to throw it after the family, but I hold on to
his wrist, and still smiling, open his palm, take the bear back and drop
it into my pack. Cam
places a hand on either side of his cup and studies
a crack in the handle, tracing it with his thumb as he speaks:
"It’s
not right, what they do. You
shouldn’t encourage them."
He
looks up, beyond my shoulder at the arches of the Roman arena, and then
continues:
"This
city has a history. It
deserves better."
I
open my mouth slowly to reply and then close it and look down at the
sweat trickling across the bare curve of my calf. I want to look up at him. I
want to tell him we all deserve better. We all carry a history.
I
move my head slightly and notice his socks don’t match. His hand touches my shoulder, and I raise my face to
his and, as
when the little girl placed her bear between us, no one’s expression
changes. I smell the sweet,
dark coffee on his breath, hear his fingers rattle the paper from the
sugar cubes.
Still
I can’t respond with words. I
gaze around the tables beside us and listen to the river of language
flowing over the clatter of plates and glasses.
Languages I do not yet know or perhaps know by a few words but
have no understanding of the content. Some words are accompanied with a wild gesture of the hands or a
shuffling of the feet or maybe a lift of the eyebrow. Only one table is like ours. Silent. They
sit beside us, an elderly couple. The
woman is comfortably settled in her chair while the gentleman leans to
the side with one leg crossed over the other, his hands relaxed as he
smokes a cigarette. They
have finished their meal and, like us, are enjoying a coffee along with
a brandy. Curious, I watch
them, trying not to stare.
The
man is looking up at the smoke as he blows it against the darkening sky. There is no breeze and the smoke mingles and swirls with the heat
vapors from the street. After
a moment, he turns to his companion and raises his eyebrows as if in the
smoke he has blown a message, and she blushes and looks down at her cup,
her cheeks red from a secret smile. He turns and slowly, smoothly blows
out another cloud of smoke, his lips pursed and strong under a white
moustache, as if he were whistling. After a moment of watching his gift,
he turns towards her again. She
looks up into his face, then picks up the card left by the girl and uses
it as a fan, tilting her chin to her shoulder and hiding her lips,
leaving only her eyes visible--old eyes, yes, but eyes that speak so
clearly that her partner laughs with an abandon that spreads over the
couples around him until they smile as they chat, without knowing why.
The old gentleman turns, his eyes still engaged with those of his love,
and signals the waiter for the bill.
He quickly pays, and as they pass by Cam, I turn to watch his reaction, but he has seen
nothing of them and is looking instead at the card, which reads:
"I
am a deaf-mute and my family is poor. We ask only that you make a contribution in exchange for the bear
and our humble attempts at music so that we
may earn our way. Thank
you."
He
turns it over and then back again and finally tosses it on the table and
finishes the last of his coffee.
He
looks at our bill, lays down the money, and then begins to walk down
the street without seeing if I follow. I stand, close my lips in a soft line and walk quickly to catch
up to him. My sandal slides
off, and as I turn and reach down for the shoe, I see the old couple
stopping beside the little girl.
The
old gentleman places both hands over his heart, and then, with great
elegance, pulls the rose from his lapel and presents it to the child,
bending down in a mocking, yet serious bow. The girl’s eyes grow darker as she reaches hesitantly for the
flower. The gentleman raises
his head and tilts it to one side, slides the rose delicately through
her hair to rest over her ear, and then caresses her cheek before
turning to escort his wife into the hotel.
The
child is still for a moment, then reaches up and takes the flower in
both hands and holds it to her chest. After a time, she carefully tucks it inside her shirt. With one hand pressed against the rose, and the other against her
cheek, she stares at the hotel doors, and then meets my gaze as she
turns to join her father and brothers who continue to work their way
down the street.
There
are no tears, there is no ancient sadness, no innocent giggle--just a
moment in the future when she and I will drink from this spring and
remember how simple love can be.