Whatever they say about me in the end, at least I made it over the
bridge
a few times. That's an inside joke here in Gloucester, "getting
over the bridge."
You see, we live on an island, on the tip of Cape Ann, which is north of
Boston. While we're only 45 minutes from the self-proclaimed "hub
of the universe," Gloucester, to its residents, can seem like the end
of the earth--which
isn't far from the truth; we jut out into the Atlantic, more comfortable
with
the sea that has supported us for almost 400 years than the land at our
back. I have friends that literally don't cross the bridge over our Annisquam
River. It is more like a moat, separating Gloucester and Rockport from
West Gloucester (which always seems the but of jokes). I however have
had
the chance to leave and come back a couple times and every time I return,
I appreciate my town even more.
If you watched the movie "The
Perfect Storm," you probably have the impression that we're all hard
drinkin', hard workin' fishermen that
don't care as much for nature as we do for money. Well, I can't deny we
do
have a part of that here but it isn't the entire town. Many of my
friends are still in the business: dragging, gillnetting and lobstering.
Hard workers all of them, and in many cases hard drinkers too, but every
last one
of them holds the deepest respect for the sea that gives us and our town
life.
The experts say that there isn't any more fish-- but they are catching
them
now more than ten years ago. Every net is full past the quotas, meaning
hundred of pounds of codfish are thrown overboard everyday--so much for
conservation. I've worked in the fishing industry growing up but it
never was a career option for me. I lobstered with my dad as well as
fished for striped
bass in the summer. I also worked at a couple of wharves culling
lobsters, selling ice, and unloading fish to be shipped. My grandpa was
a captain;
we had our family boat, the "St. Peter," named for the patron
saint of fishermen.
My ancestors from Sicily came here and found that
they could ply their
trade in our fertile waters. And so the three generations before me had
the luxury of working with their fathers and grandfathers in the world's
most dangerous profession in the city that brought codfish and the name
Gortons to the world.
I got to go dragging with my dad and grampa twice
before
they sold the boat and I was on the old boat as much as possible back
then.
But I was always told that I'm going to school to have a better life. It
took awhile, but I think I understand now why they did it. We've been
lucky not to have too many disasters at sea in my family, but our city hall records the names of thousands who lost their lives
fishing our waters. Our new monument to fishermen's wives reminds us of
all
the widows and fatherless children our city has had since 1623.
Both my
grandfathers tell stories of almost sinking, huge storms, steamers that
just miss hitting the boat by feet. One of my grandfathers is missing a
finger from a mishap; I have a cousin that is missing three. Both my
great-grandfathers were killed in wharf accidents, and my great-great
grandfather was killed by a cable splitting and hitting him in the chest.
This is not a lot of hardship for a fishing family; a friend of mine
lost almost all the men in his family when their boat went down in 1995,
and
I have distant cousins without a father-- after a tanker hit their boat
this summer.
I eventually went to college and became the first person in
my family
to do so and graduate. My degree in anthropology has helped me
understand my family history and the sub-culture of the Italian-American community
in which I was raised. I have also been able to travel, backpacking
Europe twice and visiting my family's ancestral hometown in Sicily.
Now
I have been back for two months, and I am still enjoying everything.
Small towns and city always breed a certain mentality that I've tried to
avoid. However, when you're "stuck" it's easy to start having
that mindset.
And I' m sure that in a year or two, I'll have to leave town again to
keep my sanity. But for right now everything here is great--the weather
is cold
and from my window I can see the steam rise off the harbor, partially
blocking my view of the lighthouse on Ten Pound Island.
At night from my
view
on Governor's Hill the whole town is lit up. The spires of city hall and
the Universalist church (the first in America) can be seen from out at
sea. The lighthouse on Eastern Point shines its beacon at me every seven
seconds, followed by the bellow of the foghorn on some nights.
I still
feel lucky enough to have gone "over the bridge" a couple
times, and I know I will again. But there is no chance that I'll
cross that bridge and
not come back to Gloucester.