At my high school graduation,
my friend’s mother recalled that she had refused an offer to travel to
Europe
when she turned 18. Whether due to a lack of money or
time, she couldn’t remember, but she always regretted the missed
opportunity. She is now almost 60 and still hasn’t made the trip.
It was
with this advice that I left the town of
Vicenza,
Italy, about 50 miles from
Venice. After imposing on the generosity of family for a
week, I decided to explore the Cinque Terre and Florence
alone.
I had never traveled anywhere
by myself. Never even been to Europe.
And there I was in a country where the language,
customs, and money were so, well, foreign.
As I was packing the evening
before I vacated my niece’s Barbie bedroom, my nerves crept up on me. My
sister didn’t instill confidence.
“Now if anything happens,
anything at all, call me. If you aren’t comfortable, you can just fly
home early.”
Isn’t part of the excitement
of travel going outside of your comfort zone? If I wanted to be
comfortable, I could have stayed home on my couch with some video rentals
and popcorn. My family’s reactions to my travel plans didn’t surprise
me, but my reaction to their comments did. “You are so brave,” they
said. “I could never do what you’re doing.” In trying to build me
up, their remarks had the opposite effect. I second-guessed myself and
questioned the intelligence of my plans.
As I
listened to my sister
suggest that I return to Italy
another time when she could travel with me, I knew if
I didn’t forge onward, I would regret it. There would always be a
“but” dangling over my trip. As in, “I had a great time in Italy,
but I never made it to
Florence.” I tried to reassure myself with the
‘if-other-women-can-do-it-I-can-too’ philosophy. I knew women who had
traveled alone to Iceland, the South Pacific and Antarctica. Surely, the dangers in a modern, civilized country
like Italy were minimal. But (there’s that word again) the idea
of going it alone wasn’t half as scary as actually going it alone. I
crossed my fingers that the negative karma would wear off as I began the
second leg of my Italian journey.
With trepidation, I boarded a
train headed west to the resort town of Monterosso. My itinerary was to spend two nights in the Cinque
Terre region, and on the third day travel to Florence
to spend three nights before returning to the States.
I played the ‘what if’ game. What if I couldn’t find my hotel? What
if my wallet was stolen? What if I got sick? The ‘what ifs’ plagued me
until the train emerged from a tunnel to a view of the deep blue
Mediterranean Sea dotted with white boats, and I was relieved I hadn’t
missed a thing.
The voices of doubt sneaked up
on me again when I decided to hike from Monterosso to Vernassa, two towns
in the Cinque Terre. The rocky trail sat high upon the cliffs with
vineyards looming above and sheer drops to the sea below. I was assured by
the hotel concierge that the trail was well traveled so I needn’t worry
about hiking alone. Thirty minutes into the hike, I hadn’t yet seen a
soul when I caught a glimpse of a man in a white t-shirt a few minutes
behind me and gaining fast. I sped up. Before long I broke into a run,
using my hands to help me scurry over steep inclines. Of course, when the
man passed, he greeted me with a “buon giorno,” and went on his way. I
learned the first lesson about
traveling solo: let the
bogeymen go. I refused to spend the rest of my trip
held hostage by unreasonable
fears.
Fearing strangers and putting
trust in them were two different things. Like Blanche in “A Streetcar
Named Desire,” who always relied on the kindness of strangers, I found
it necessary to do the same when my train from Monterosso to Florence
terminated unexpectedly in the small town of
La Spezia. At the train station, all of the passengers
disembarked except for me and a woman sitting across from me. We sat for a
few minutes smiling and nodding, but engrossed in our own reading
materials. When a new crowd of passengers boarded, it was time to
investigate. Luckily, the woman, Linda, was from
Boston
and spoke Italian much better than I did. We became a team
instantly. She headed to the front of the car to locate a conductor, and I tried
to speak to the man beside me. As Linda came back with the bad news that
the train was returning to Monterosso, we each grabbed an end of my
suitcase and ran down the aisle, jumping off the train just as the doors
closed behind us. It was wonderful to have a partner in crime.
When we reached her stop in
Pisa, I felt lonely. Ten years from now, I won’t be able
to laugh with Linda about our crisis narrowly averted. The experience is
relegated to live only in my memory. Traveling alone is much more than
worrying about getting from point A to B or staying safe. It is more than
merely traveling without a companion. It is a different experience
entirely. The souvenirs on my bookshelf remind only me of the cute
boutique I found hidden on a side street. My photo of three opera
understudies singing a cappella in the Piazzale della Repubblica brings
the memory of their melodious voices back to me alone. When I describe the
silky smooth texture of Ligurian pesto sauce, no one else can summon the
taste.
This feeling was most prevalent
when I visited the Uffizi Gallery. The gallery was to be the highlight of
my time in Florence. Seeing Botticelli’s Birth of Venus somehow seemed
less magnificent when staring at it alone, so I shared my amazement with
strangers. “Look at those brushstrokes. Isn’t his mastery of the
female form astounding?” More often than not, people joined in. It was a
pleasure to share the art with the people around me, even if I wouldn’t
see them again.
The most important things I
learned during my time alone in Italy were about me. I am not able to share my experiences
in Italy
with my family and friends in the same way I would if
they had been there, but maybe that’s not a bad thing. My trip is
selfishly mine and mine alone. Whether or not I ever take another solo
vacation, I know that touring Italy solo was a far better option than the alternative:
regret.