Back in California
I drove an Audi A4 1.8T with heated seats and Quattro all-wheel drive. These
features made all the difference, risking the difficult quarter-mile down
to Bell Market to pick up ripe avocados and a basket of cherry tomatoes.
My
Brooklyn
equivalent is the F-Train, which I catch two blocks up
at the Carroll Street
stop. It lacks heated seats and a six-CD changer, but
makes up for this in a particular brand of urban diversity. The French
probably have a word for it, but they wouldn’t use it here.
Of course, it isn’t the subway
itself that evokes response and emotion, but the people who ride it. Without
them it is merely a network of clunky old trains plowing through sooty
tunnels, clearing the heads of large track-dwelling rodents. Add the human
element and the system comes alive: A sometimes thriving, sometimes
decaying organism with veins reaching to all corners of the city.
Summer presents the ideal
setting for acquainting oneself with the dizzying flow of fellow riders,
many stripped down to minimal clothing, revealing all that constitutes
both the beauty and cruel joke which define humanity. At times, one is
offered a momentary diversion from his daily rumination, perhaps in the
form of a soft blue cotton dress draped gracefully over elegant brown
shoulders. But always equally available are the horror and unflinching
reality that is the human gene pool. It has been often speculated that God
has a sense of humor. If one were to note this riding the subway, he might
also conclude that isn’t entirely unlike that of the kid who pulled the
wings off bugs in the third grade.
“Punch is a good guy. He’s
one of those guys...he’s figurin’ shit out. Just figurin’ shit
out.”
I pick up this bit of dialogue
from two business boys riding the 6 Train up Lexington, both wearing checkered pastel Polo shirts and
blue-faced Fossil watches. They are young, probably fifteen years my
junior and just out of college. The one speaking looks Irish, with a flap
of red hair relentlessly pursuing his forehead and chubby pale hairless
legs, pushing from khaki shorts. I imagine that Punch is a coworker, about
the same age, and admired by both. The emphasis the kid puts on this short
phrase--“figurin’ shit out”--can’t be ignored. For a moment it
seems we are all doing the same, waiting for a fresh allotment of
confusing shit at the next stop. The doors open at 77th, and a black guy
with a Charlie Parker shirt and wrap around shades slides in next to me.
“ ’Scuse me, Doctor.
What time you got?”
I tell him nine-thirty.
“Ouch! Not
good, not
good.”
I note that this is the first
“doctor” I’ve gotten (on either coast) and appreciate the novelty
and assumed sophistication. It runs circles around “big guy,”
“boss,” and “chief.” My imaginative friend bolts at 86th, much too
involved in his pressing schedule to care about my amusement. In his place
sits a lanky, paint-splattered laborer, with a cement bucket and spade and
skeletal limbs.
The heat isn’t as bad as I
imagined. Part of it has to do with an air of authenticity I assume I’m
experiencing. After almost 38 years, this is my first real, extended,
urban summer. My seasons in Northern California were rounded at the
corners with few extremes, and the exceptions didn’t last too long. I
still think that it’s an ideal climate, and certainly one of the most
beautiful spots in the world. But the weather out here lends itself to the
city. It has weight, distinction, and authority. When the sky decides to
do something, it does it. And everything seems played out on a scale that
puts human participation in its proper, individual perspective. Perhaps
God’s sense of humor isn’t quite so cruel after all;
he seems to
have spared them earthquakes. At least, until I got here…
Previously
published in New York Newcomer.