"This
place is great. The two landladies are so nice. You’re gonna love it,"
our newly met co-guest Charlie said, explaining he’d been coming to this
B&B for ten years.
Curbside,
the inn didn’t inspire the confidence Charlie exuded as we unloaded
luggage, but he looked like a fellow who could recommend good
accommodations. Jim and I followed him in the front door. He strode down
the hallway like a man coming home.
"Who’re
you?" issued from a boxy woman who blocked passage to the inner sanctum.
So this was one of the 'nice ladies'? I had expected a petite,
sweet-faced, gray-haired lady leaning toward stout and smiling through
pearly dentures. Well, I figured, it was the rush hour as check-in times
go, so maybe charm and friendliness take a back seat to brevity and
efficiency.
I’d
barely announced our names and the fact that we came bearing a reservation
when the disheveled woman pointed to an exceedingly spartan room next to
the front entry, door agape.
"We’ve
put you in the parlor."
"Oh,
yes, thanks." I tried on a smile, hoping it hadn’t arranged itself as
the grimace it felt like.
We
headed in, followed by the greeter, who seemed to not have had time to don
her 'greeting clothes', nor found the tools to tidy her unruly hair.
Clad in clothes I would have worn for housework, she stood in the doorway
and leaned against the chipped trim to recite the rules of the house.
"You
can park behind the inn. Just drive up the road on the side here." She
pointed to a steep, narrow drive a couple yards from our window. "We
need to fit six cars in that space, so keep that in mind."
I
envisioned a new crop of door dings by morning.
While
the landlady droned on about the proper way to conduct a stay at this inn,
I glimpsed Charlie dutifully moving his Lexus up the steep hill to the
lot, where I imagined him squeezing between two other guests’ cars, then
laboring with his door--using both hands and feet--to effect a
sidehill exit.
We
were given the directions back to our room after we obeyed the parking
directive. They sounded akin to a trek through Alice’s maze. And, we were warned, in case we had any idea
of spending a pleasant evening in the garden--overgrown though it was--the path lights are no longer left on after dark. This was solely for
the guests’ safety, we were assured, due to the potential for deer to
wander in, become cranky over folks hanging about in their territory and
knock them over.
I
assumed Charlie wasn’t an outdoor sort of guy.
We
turned our attention to the tiny cell we’d been assigned. In order to
survey our night’s environs unsupervised, we closed the door. We
discovered that the room was best viewed from afar. The decorations were,
euphemistically speaking, sparse, consisting solely of two pictures placed
strategically in a three-foot-square portion of one wall. The bed, which
at first appeared to have a huge swale in the middle, turned out to be
worse than initially thought. Unlike the bulk of the B&B’s in the
area, there was a distinct lack of attractive wallpaper, overstuffed
pillows, plush rugs, or even the rudimentary bedside clock. The bath
amenities included a wafer-thin sliver of soap. Among the clever items
strategically placed in the WC was a half-full bottle of Softsoap situated
on the sink and a generic tissue box tossed on the above-john shelves. The
rest of the room was uncluttered by such pesky items as shampoo, lotion or
hair dryer. Tattered guest towels lying on the sink completed the casual
look.
Maybe
Charlie finds plump bath towels too indulgent, I thought. Or maybe he is
annoyed by a firm bed adorned with colorful bolsters and down comforters.
One
large window overlooked the front porch. Directly in front of our room,
separated only by an old piece of glass and a flimsy sheer, a conversation
pit of wicker was arranged. I could already picture the after-play crowd
critiquing until the wee hours on the other side of the wall a few feet
from our bed.
I
kept thinking about Charlie, coming here for ten years. Had he never been
to another B&B? Out of the 54 lovely inns competing for the honor of
housing the theater crowd in this small burg, this one dropped off the low
end of the scale.
After
a grim performance of 'Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf'--the high spot
of the day, however unlikely that seems--we straggled back to the inn
over sodden sidewalks under a foreboding sky. While preparing to retire
for the night, exhausted after a long drive and a longer play, we
attempted to button up for sleep. The innkeepers must have thought privacy
was only needed in front, as they hadn’t seen fit to supply a blind for
the side window. Unconvinced, I couldn’t bring myself to parade around
scantily clad under the glaring overhead light in front of a two by six
opening to neighborhood view. I freed the side curtains from their tether
and braided them into a semblance of window covering.
Was
Charlie really in the same B&B we were?
We
climbed into bed, and held onto our respective sides lest we tumble into
the chasm formed by the center of the mattress. Even the tiniest movement
broadcast deafening squeaks and shuddering vibrations. The threadbare
quilt afforded nearly sufficient warmth in the drafty room. Huddling in
the depths of the chasm started to sound tempting.
Aside
from a bed long past its prime, the old house had many of its own quaint
quirks. The slightest weight on the floor echoed throughout the structure.
Our inn-mates overhead proved to be nocturnal sorts, opting to take long
hikes above us during the night. Every footfall resounded with a prolonged
squeak. Outside was no better. What had appeared to be a quiet park-side
street by day became a heavily-traveled boulevard once we were tucked in.
We
decided the hostesses pocketed all the room fees, never once thinking of
freshening the paint or replacing the beds with, say, mattresses
manufactured this century. An interior designer might have suggested a
more appealing rug--or at least one that fit the room dimensions--and nightstand lamps that came from somewhere other than a flea market.
Nonetheless, we somehow passed seven hours in that pathetic room.
What
was it Charlie saw there? We decided he’s either one of the owners’
kin or a marketing agent. Elsewise, why does he keep coming back?
Why,
Charlie? Why?